Pork Chops with Caramelized Apples, Wilted Spinach, and Creamy Potato Purée
Pork shoulder braised with apples and onions is a classic combination in Germanic cuisines. This recipe offers a lightened version featuring pan-seared pork chops that cook in minutes rather than hours. In this dish, the sweetness of slow-browned apples is tempered with the tart flavors of dry white wine and cider vinegar in a savory pan velouté sauce. Creamy potato purée is a sophisticated take on mashed potatoes; once you try it you’ll become a convert. Lemon-enhanced wilted spinach complements the apples’ sweetness to complete this seasonal dish.
Make the rub: Combine the coriander seeds, anise seeds, peppercorns, granulated garlic, granulated onion, paprika, thyme, sage, and salt in an electric spice grinder or mortar, and grind to a powder.
Wipe the chops with paper towels. Trim away excess fat, leaving a fat rim slightly less than ¼ inch thick. Score the chops: Use the tip of a sharp boning or paring knife to cut through the fat rim and connective tissue between the fat and the meat. Avoid cutting too far into the meat.
Sprinkle the chops with the rub on both sides and massage it into the meat.
Place the chops in a plastic bag and refrigerate at least 1 hour.
2. Make the sauce base:
Melt the butter in a saucepan over low heat. Add the flour and stir to make a roux. Cook, stirring constantly, about 2 minutes until the roux achieves a light tan color.
Slowly stir in the wine and chicken broth in a thin stream. Add a pinch of salt and then simmer, stirring occasionally, about 20 minutes to a thick consistency.
If prepping ahead of time, cool to room temperature and store in a container.
3. Fabricate and caramelize the onion:
Peel the onion, halve it lengthwise, and then cut with the grain into thin slices.
Melt the step 3 butter in a saucepan over medium heat, then add the onions and some salt. Sauté for a minute or two until the onions are coated with butter and beginning to soften and brown at the edges.
Cover the pan with a lid, add the water, turn the heat to low, and pan-steam the onions for about 5 minutes. Uncover and stir occasionally. If the onions are browning before softening, stir in a little more water and re-cover the pan.
When the onions are soft, uncover the pan, reduce away any excess moisture, and sauté over low heat until golden brown.
If prepping ahead, cool to room temperature and store in a container.
4. Fabricate the potatoes:
Peel the potatoes and cut into 1-inch chunks.
Place in a container and cover with cold water.
5. Zest the lemon:
Use a swivel peeler to remove a strip of zest from the lemon, then mince the zest. Place the zest in a small container. If prepping ahead, put a few drops of water into the container to prevent the zest from drying out. Reserve the lemon wedge for your mise tray.
HOLD: Refrigerate all ingredients up to 5 days.
COOK! Finish and plate your dinner:
6. Make the potato purée:
Drain the potatoes, place in a saucepot, add cold water to cover by ½ inch, and add the step 6 salt.
Bring to a brisk simmer and cook, uncovered, about 8 minutes until a knife pierces a potato chunk with little resistance. Be careful not to overcook the potatoes.
Pour the cooking water off of the potatoes, using a slotted spoon to hold them back. Leave about ½ inch water in the bottom of the pan.
Add the butter to the potatoes. Use a handheld electric mixer to whip the potatoes into a purée. Do not over-mix. When the potatoes are smooth, whip in the cream. The consistency should be soft, light, and fluffy. Season with additional salt and optional white pepper.
Cover the pan and hold on the back of the stove.
7. Preheat an oven to 400°F.
8. Sauté the pork chops:
Make sure the chops are not wet. If necessary blot them dry on paper towels without dislodging the seasoning rub.
Place a sauté pan over high heat until hot but not smoking. Add the step 8 oil, then add the chops. Sear the chops for about 20 seconds on each side until browned but not completely cooked through.
Transfer the chops to a sizzle pan or oven-proof tray, and push to the back of the stove.
9. Fabricate and caramelize the apple(s):
Peel the apple(s), quarter, and remove the core(s). Cut each quarter width-wise into slices slightly less than ¼-inch thick.
Add the step 9 butter to the pork chop pan and return it to medium heat. Sauté the apples, flipping or turning them, about 2 minutes until they soften and turn golden brown. As you sauté, scrape up the fond, or browned protein residue, from the bottom of the pan.
10. Place the chops in the oven to finish cooking.
11. Place the potatoes over low heat.
12. Finish the sauce:
Add the sauce and caramelized onions to the pan with the apples. Cover and simmer until hot through.
If necessary, thin the sauce to nappé consistency, but keep in mind you’ll be adding juices from the chops.
Taste and evaluate the flavor. Season the sauce with a few drops of cider vinegar to balance the sweetness, and add more salt if needed.
13. Wilt the spinach:
Heat a sauté pan very hot. Add the step 13 butter, then quickly add the spinach. Sauté, turning with tongs, a few seconds only until the spinach wilts. If any liquid pools on the bottom of the pan, pour it off. (If making more than 2 servings, cook the spinach in batches.)
Toss in the lemon zest, a small pinch of salt, and a few drops of lemon juice.
14. Plate:
Pour off the juice from the chops into the sauce and stir it in.
Mound the potato purée on the back left of hot plates.
Prop the chops against the potatoes on the front of the plates.
Use tongs and a slotted spoon to distribute the apples and onions partially on the chops, then nap the chops with the sauce.
Mound the spinach on the back right of the plates.
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