March 15 – April 30
Here in the Mid-Atlantic it’s been a long, difficult winter. Unlike the past few years, when winter temperatures have been relatively mild and snowfall has been negligible, this year temperatures dropped below freezing right after the Yuletide holidays and stayed frigidly cold through most of January. Then, near the end of the month, a nor’easter snowstorm blanketed the region with nearly a foot of wet snow and then topped it with a two-inch crust of ice. Throughout February daytime temperatures at or below freezing preserved this slippery, cumbersome mess on the ground until the beginning of March. The best we could do was hunker down indoors and enjoy the comfort of satisfying winter cooking.
But now the snow is gone, the days are growing longer, and the earth’s eternal turning of the seasons brings the promise of spring.
Early March is the time for starting seeds indoors and sowing outdoors in a heated cold frame or under floating row covers. Cold-tolerant, fast-growing vegetables sprout quickly and grow bravely even with nighttime temperatures in the mid-30s.
Radishes are among the first vegetables of spring. They grow side-by-side with cool weather salad greens such as spinach, baby kale, arugula, and sturdy lettuces. So it’s time to celebrate salads!
Unlike our ancestors, we can rush the season just a little by purchasing produce grown in more southerly climes. Although Mid-Atlantic asparagus won’t emerge from the garden until mid-April, the Florida asparagus season peaks in March. Broccoli, broccoli rabe, baby carrots, young cabbages, and snap peas become available early as spring moves northward through the growing zones. For seasonal eaters it’s not really cheating to indulge in vegetables shipped in from just a little ways south.
Early spring is when Atlantic ocean fish migrate to warmer waters near the coast, and anadromous fish on both coasts begin their river journeys inland to spawn. March and April are prime season for spring Chinook salmon from the northern West Coast and grouper from Florida. Here in the Mid-Atlantic the fish harvest season starts in March with shad, prized for both its rich, moist flesh and its delicate roe. And we’re waiting eagerly for the season’s first wild-caught striped bass (hereabouts called rockfish), in my opinion the very best fish of all.
Lamb is another protein traditionally associated with spring. In bygone days, at this time of year farmers harvested some of their sheep herd’s young animals—particularly for the celebratory Easter meal—but also for the urban East Coast market where both immigrants and aristocrats prized its mild flavor and tender texture.
Today, here in South Central Pennsylvania there’s virtually no local lamb available. Although in North America a few boutique farms offer lamb, production is limited and prices are high. But high-quality, ethically-raised New Zealand and Australian frozen lamb is widely available at reasonable prices. So, you can enjoy this special meat in its traditional season as well as year-round.
Let’s celebrate spring with new seasonal entrées I’ll be developing in the coming weeks!
Irish Cider-Glazed Salmon with Golden Beets and Colcannon
Perfect for St. Patrick’s Day—but delicious all season long—this recipe was inspired by the refined modern Irish cuisine served at the Ballymaloe House Hotel and Restaurant in Shanagarry, Cork County. Pan-seared, wild-caught, early-spring salmon fillets are coated with a reduction of apple cider and white wine, then finished in the oven to form a savory-sweet glaze that complements its delicate flavor and moist texture. Colcannon, a traditional Irish side dish, combines tender young cabbage and scallions with fluffy potato purée elevated with light cream and Irish butter. Lemony roasted beets complete the plate for a stunning springtime meal.
Orecchiette with Braised Lamb and Spring Vegetables
Tender morsels of quick-braised lamb combine with al dente orecchiette pasta and crisp-tender snap peas, English peas, and asparagus for an Italian-inspired pasta entrée. This seasonal medley is bound with a rich lemon butter sauce enhanced with aged Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, making a springtime dinner entrée that’s light yet deeply satisfying.
Creamy Chicken Cobbler with Mushrooms and Spring Vegetables
Cobbler isn’t always dessert! This dish is like a savory chicken pie, but features an easy no-roll drop-biscuit topping. Big chunks of boneless chicken breast simmer in a rich, creamy, herb-scented sauce with sautéed mushrooms, snap peas, carrots, and asparagus, then nestle in a casserole under a cobbler crust. While the little nuggets of biscuit dough bake on top, their interiors absorb the sauce becoming moist and tasty, while their tops become crunchy and toasty-brown. It’s perfect comfort food for a cool, early spring evening.
